Surprising Revelation: ‘Modernist’ Writers Unveil the Best Pizza City in the USA

The coveted title of the best pizza city in the United States has been claimed by an unexpected contender – Portland, Oregon, and not the traditional frontrunners New York or Chicago. This declaration comes from Nathan Myhrvold and Francisco Migoya, authors of the extensive “Modernist Pizza,” a three-volume, nearly 1,700-page encyclopedia set to be released in October. The comprehensive work covers the history of pizza, over 1,000 recipes, pizza-making techniques, tools, and recommendations for the best pies, with detailed information and stunning photographs.

Nathan Myhrvold, the former chief technology officer at Microsoft, mentioned in a video interview with CNN Travel that the project took almost four years to complete, including visits to 250 pizzerias across the United States. The authors explored big cities and smaller towns, renowned pizza havens such as Chicago, New York, and Philadelphia, and emerging contenders like Portland.

Portland’s rise to the top was attributed to innovation and a passion for delivering exceptional pizzas. Myhrvold acknowledged that the city had undergone a foodie renaissance, but he didn’t expect its pizza scene to outshine many other places. He credited two artisan establishments, Apizza Scholls and Ken’s Artisan Pizza, for kickstarting the high-quality pizza scene. However, he was surprised to discover a vibrant community of people dedicated to making great pizza throughout Portland.

The authors expressed that the defining characteristics of Portland’s pizza scene were creativity, an emphasis on quality ingredients, and a collective desire to excel. Myhrvold highlighted the absence of a specific style defining Portland pizza, emphasizing the commonalities of inventive approaches, quality ingredients, and a commitment to excellence.

The “Modernist Pizza” volumes include special nods and write-ups for several pizza restaurants in Portland that received praise. Some of the notable establishments mentioned in the book include Lovely’s Fifty Fifty, Apizza Scholls, Handsome Pizza, Ken’s Artisan Pizza, Nostrana, Red Sauce Pizza, Scottie’s Pizza Parlor, and Sizzle Pie.

The proclamation that Portland surpasses traditional pizza powerhouses like New York City stirred emotions and potential disagreements, especially concerning Myhrvold’s assessment of New York’s pizza scene. According to him, New York City relies too much on tradition and old reputations, particularly criticizing dollar-a-slice pizza and cheap pizzerias. He suggested that the best pizza experiences in New York could be found in the boroughs or suburban areas rather than in Manhattan proper.

Myhrvold’s exploration of pizza extended beyond the United States, with mentions of fantastic pizzas in Naples, Italy, and cities like Sao Paulo, Brazil, and Buenos Aires, Argentina, where significant Italian immigration in the 19th century influenced the pizza culture. However, he expressed reservations about overly creative pizzas, citing examples from Seoul, South Korea, and Tokyo.

The extensive coverage of pizza in “Modernist Pizza” reflects its importance as a globally beloved and versatile dish. Myhrvold emphasized the controversies and debates surrounding what makes great pizza, highlighting the diversity of pizza styles worldwide. The authors aimed to cater to passionate and curious food enthusiasts, acknowledging that the world of pizza offers endless possibilities for exploration and experimentation.

As for future projects, Myhrvold teased that the next endeavor from the Modernist team would focus on pastries and desserts.