Legend has it that a group of Portuguese monks sailing to Macao encountered turbulent weather, leading them to accidentally land in Nagasaki, Japan. Little did they know that this serendipitous encounter would have a profound impact on Japan and its culinary landscape, introducing a simple yet cherished ingredient – sugar.
During the 16th century, Nagasaki, situated on the island of Kyushu, was the sole city where foreigners could engage in trade with the Japanese. This unique status gave rise to a strong affinity for sweets in Nagasaki, influencing the development of many of Japan’s contemporary favorite wagashi, or sweets.
Among these is castella, a pound cake inspired by Portuguese culinary traditions. While the concept of making pound cake found its way to Japan via Portugal, a distinctively Japanese touch is added with the use of mizuame syrup, crafted from glutinous rice.
For those seeking an authentic taste of castella, Fukusaya is a renowned cake shop chain. The first Fukusaya location opened in Nagasaki in 1624, and today, the chain’s main branch in Fukuoka, the largest city on Kyushu, stands in the bustling Akasaka neighborhood, not far from Hakata Station – the western terminus of the Shinkansen high-speed train line.
At Fukusaya, castella is meticulously prepared, cut into bite-sized cubes, individually wrapped in vibrant packaging, and presented in gift boxes. While the shop occasionally introduces special flavors like sakura (cherry blossom) in the spring or chocolate around Christmas, the classic castella remains the top-selling item, as confirmed by an employee in Akasaka.
The influence of castella extends to another beloved Japanese sweet – dorayaki. In this iteration, the castella cake is fashioned into a thinner pancake and filled with a layer of sweet red bean paste. This delightful treat embodies the fusion of Japanese and Portuguese culinary elements, encapsulating centuries of cultural exchange.
As visitors explore the rich culinary offerings of Kyushu, they are invited to savor the legacy of those Portuguese monks who, unintentionally, left an indelible mark on Japanese sweets. The tale of castella is a testament to the enduring connections forged through unexpected encounters and the delightful interplay of culinary traditions across borders and time.