Tomonoura: A Serene Coastal Village Steeped in History, Away from the Bustle of Japan

Shopkeeper Yuri Koshimizu graciously explains the purpose of a small, basic box hanging from the ceiling in her store, Homeishuya, surrounded by medicinal liquor, clay figurines, and homemade soaps. The box is there for the swallows, she mentions, meant to catch droppings from their nest above it.

According to Koshimizu, the swallows pass through from May to August, utilizing a hole in the door to access the shop even when it’s closed. She laughs, noting that she believes they are the same swallows returning each year.

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In Japanese culture, swallows are considered symbols of good luck. Yet, Tomonoura, a village in Hiroshima prefecture, owes its preservation and charm not just to luck but also to the absence of extensive industrialization that affected other port towns like Kobe and Hiroshima after the decline of the shogun military rulers in the 19th century. Tomonoura boasts a wealth of historic architecture from the Edo Period (1603-1868), and grassroots initiatives have contributed to its conservation.

Despite its population of approximately 3,350 people, Tomonoura remains a tranquil, low-key hamlet, offering respite from the overcrowded cities like Tokyo and Kyoto. While it might be known to the Japanese as a filming location for Marvel’s “The Wolverine” and the inspiration for Studio Ghibli’s animated “Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea,” it remains relatively undiscovered by foreign visitors.

Situated at the heart of Setonaikai National Park, Tomonoura commands stunning views of the Seto Inland Sea and its islands. The village’s origin dates back over 1,400 years, and its port flourished as ships waited for favorable tides and winds, earning it the name “port waiting for the tide.”

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The town’s layout, hemmed in by mountains and the sea, invites exploration on foot. Wandering through its narrow backstreets, visitors can observe daily life, from people walking their dogs to fishing boats coming and going. Tomonoura’s retro feel is evident in its stores, like Hirai Shoten, offering daily necessities and specializing in oden, a Japanese comfort food.

The historic district features over 280 buildings from the Edo Period, including port-related structures. The Joyato, a 36-foot tall stone lighthouse, stands as a spiritual centerpiece overlooking the harbor. Tomonoura’s temples, shrines, and historic sites tell tales of its Edo-era past, offering a glimpse into the rich history of the village.

One notable site is the Ota Residence, home to the Nakamura family, who created homeishu, a medicinal liquor, in 1659. The tradition continues with four homeishu breweries, each producing its unique blend. Tomonoura’s other longstanding industry is metalworking, catering to the needs of ships waiting in its port.

The village also offers seaside hotels, including Ofutei with its open-air rotenburo on the roof. Nearby excursions include Sensui Island, Abuto Kannon temple, and the Shinshoji Zen Museum and Gardens, providing visitors with diverse experiences, from sandy beaches to ancient temples and Zen art.

Tomonoura’s blend of history, natural beauty, and cultural richness makes it a hidden gem waiting to be discovered by those seeking an authentic and tranquil Japanese experience.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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