Spain has emerged as the leader in the culinary world, boasting the highest number of restaurants on the prestigious “World’s 50 Best” list for the year 2023. While Italy and France may be the first guesses for such culinary acclaim, it is Spain that claims the distinction with six of its restaurants making it to the coveted list, surpassing Italy’s five and France’s four. This culinary achievement speaks to Spain’s deep-rooted gastronomic heritage and a longstanding association with the title of the “world’s best.”
The culinary scene in Spain has been significantly influenced by the iconic El Bulli, a restaurant that held the top spot on the list a record five times before its closure in 2011. El Bulli played a pivotal role in shaping modern gastronomy, particularly through the innovative techniques of molecular gastronomy, or as Ferran Adrià, the pioneer behind El Bulli, prefers to call it, “cocina de vanguardia.”
A noteworthy aspect of Spain’s culinary success is the training and influence of chefs who have emerged from El Bulli. This includes Chef José Andrés, a key figure in introducing Spanish cuisine to American audiences. Andrés, who trained at El Bulli for three years, eventually established his own group of restaurants in Washington, DC, including the acclaimed two Michelin-star minibar.
In a recent exploration of Spain, Andrés returned with his three American-born daughters for the discovery+ series “José Andrés and Family in Spain,” aired on CNN. The series showcases Andrés’ connection with his mentor, Ferran Adrià, at the El Bulli museum in Roses. It also features a dining experience at Barcelona’s Disfrutar, ranked second on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list and named the Best Restaurant in Europe.
Disfrutar, meaning “to enjoy,” is helmed by three chefs—Mateu Casañas, Oriol Castro, and Eduard Xatruch—who met and trained at El Bulli. The restaurant offers tasting menus with dishes reflecting a “markedly Mediterranean identity.” With two Michelin stars, Disfrutar’s offerings include multispherical pesto with pistachios and eel, presented in two tasting menus—one featuring classics and another showcasing seasonal creations.
Moving on to Madrid, DiverXO claims the third spot on the World’s 50 Best list. Chef Dabiz Muñoz’s restaurant offers a hedonistic journey through a creative culinary world, with the “flying pigs” tasting menu priced at 365 euros, excluding drinks. The menu pays homage to Muñoz’s father’s whimsical dream about flying pigs, evident throughout the restaurant’s design.
Asador Etxebarri, situated in the Basque Country, secures the fourth spot on the list. Renowned for flame-grilled cooking, the restaurant, led by owner-chef Bittor Arginzoniz, focuses on top-quality grilled dishes using various types of wood. Michelin has awarded Etxebarri one star for its innovative approach to grilling.
Quique Dacosta, located in Dénia, claims the 20th spot on the list. Chef Quique Dacosta’s restaurant is known for its theatrical, Valencian avant-garde cuisine. The latest menu, titled “For the Love of Art,” is divided into four acts, each dedicated to a specific theme, such as the local area, the sea, tradition, and “sweet beauty.”
Elkano, in Getaria, holds the 22nd position on the World’s 50 Best list. Established in 1964, Elkano is renowned for its wood-fired cooking, particularly its grilled whole fish. Emphasizing fresh, seasonal seafood with a commitment to local and sustainable products, Elkano offers both a la carte dining and a multicourse fixed-price menu.
Mugaritz, located in San Sebastian, secures the 31st spot on the list. Celebrating its 25th anniversary, Mugaritz, founded by El Bulli alum Andoni Luis Aduriz, is known for its avant-garde approach. The restaurant closes for four months each year to create a new dining experience, with the current installment centered around the concept of “memories of the future.”
In conclusion, Spain’s culinary prowess is unmistakable, with six of its restaurants earning coveted spots on the World’s 50 Best list. Each establishment brings a unique culinary perspective, reflecting the country’s rich gastronomic heritage and innovative spirit. From the avant-garde creations of Disfrutar to the hedonistic journey at DiverXO, Spain’s culinary landscape continues to captivate and set global standards for excellence in dining.