The Village Constructed by Korean Refugees on a Japanese Graveyard, Known as the ‘Tombstone Village’

Nestled within the South Korean city of Busan, Ami-dong initially appears as a typical village, characterized by vibrant houses and narrow alleys against the backdrop of towering mountains. However, a closer look reveals an intriguing architectural feature – tombstones inscribed with Japanese characters integrated into house foundations, walls, and steep staircases. Ami-dong, also known as the Tombstone Cultural Village, has a unique origin story dating back to the tumultuous period of the Korean War.

The Korean War, erupting in 1950 after North Korea’s invasion of the South, led to widespread displacement across the Korean Peninsula. Over 640,000 North Koreans crossed the 38th parallel, seeking refuge in the South. Simultaneously, within South Korea, citizens fled towards the southern regions, away from the conflict zones and the capital, Seoul. Amid this chaotic exodus, Busan emerged as a temporary wartime capital, strategically fortified by UN forces to withstand the Northern advance. The relative security of Busan, one of the only two cities unconquered by North Korea during the war, made it a haven for refugees and a crucial stronghold for the nation.

However, the influx of displaced individuals presented a housing challenge in Busan, already strained by the demands of war. Ami-dong, a crematorium and cemetery established during Japan’s occupation of Korea from 1910 to 1945, became an unexpected solution. During the colonial era, the flatland and downtown areas of Busan, developed as Japanese territory, contrasted with the poorer settlements further inland near the mountains. Ami-dong’s cemetery, originally holding the ashes of the Japanese deceased, was abandoned after the end of the Japanese occupation.

As refugees streamed into Busan at the onset of the Korean War, the tombstones from the Ami-dong cemetery were repurposed. Desperate for shelter and space, the refugees dismantled the tombstones and used them to construct a makeshift village within what would later evolve into a bustling metropolis. The tombstones, engraved with Japanese script including Kanji, Hiragana, and Katakana, became integral parts of house structures and pathways, embodying the village’s unique history.

“In an urgent situation, when there was no land, a cemetery was there and people seemed to have felt that they had to live there,” explains Kong Yoon-kyung, a professor in urban engineering at Pusan National University.

Kim Jung-ha’s 2008 paper delves into the memories of former refugees, revealing accounts of tearing down cemetery walls and repurposing tombstones for construction. Amid the challenging circumstances, Ami-dong became a boundary between life and death, rural and urban areas, and hometown and a foreign place for the refugees. The village’s complex history symbolizes colonization, war, and migration.

The armistice signed in 1953 marked the end of active hostilities, but the Korean War technically never concluded with a peace treaty. Subsequently, many refugees left Busan to rebuild their lives elsewhere, but others chose to stay, contributing to the city’s economic revival.

In contemporary times, Busan has transformed into a vibrant seaside destination, and Ami-dong reflects this evolution. While many houses have been restored with fresh coats of paint, remnants of the past persist. Tombstones can still be found tucked under doorsteps, staircases, and stone walls. Some serve functional roles, supporting gas cylinders and flower pots. The inscriptions on many tombstones, weathered by time, are no longer legible.

Despite the changes, Ami-dong’s rich history is acknowledged and preserved. The Busan government has made efforts to highlight this unique heritage, turning Ami-dong into a tourist attraction adjacent to the famous Gamcheon Culture Village. An information center provides insights into the village’s history, and signs remind visitors to be quiet and respectful due to the presence of current residents.

As visitors leave Ami-dong, a sign on the main road hints at future plans: “There is a plan to build (a) memorial place in the future after collecting the tombstones scattered all over the place.” This gesture underscores Busan’s commitment to commemorating the complex tapestry of its past, ensuring that the Tombstone Cultural Village remains a testament to the resilience and adaptability of its people in the face of adversity.