The Century’s Most Misunderstood Ingredient, MSG, Sees a Shift in Perception

Calvin Eng, the proprietor of the Cantonese-American eatery Bonnie’s in New York, proudly embraces monosodium glutamate (MSG). His restaurant features a signature drink called the MSG Martini, and he even has “MSG” tattooed on his arm. According to Eng, MSG enhances the flavor of both Western and Cantonese cuisines, and it is a staple in their drinks, desserts, and savory dishes. Despite the once negative perception of using MSG, Bonnie’s has thrived since its opening in late 2021, garnering Best New Restaurant awards and recognition for Eng as one of the best new chefs of 2022.

Eng is part of a growing trend among chefs, including notables like David Chang of Momofuku and author/chef Eddie Huang, who are actively promoting and destigmatizing MSG. In the past, using MSG was considered taboo, with negative associations stemming from a 1968 letter titled “Chinese Restaurant Syndrome,” which linked MSG to symptoms like numbness and weakness. However, scientific trials have failed to consistently prove MSG sensitivity, and global health organizations have deemed it safe for consumption.

The history of MSG dates back to 1907 when Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda extracted glutamate from kombu seaweed, coining the term “umami” for the savory taste. MSG, a crystallized form of glutamate, became a prized condiment, especially in Japan. However, its reputation suffered in 1968, leading to decades of negative perceptions.

Contrary to popular belief, MSG is plant-derived, produced through fermentation similar to beer or yogurt production. The process involves fermenting plants with sugar, creating glutamate, which is then crystalized by adding sodium. Glutamate is a naturally occurring amino acid found in various foods like cheese, tomatoes, and meat.

In recent years, efforts have been made to change public perceptions about MSG. Ajinomoto, a Japanese brand, has lobbied for changes in dictionaries and organized symposiums to educate the public about MSG and umami. Despite these efforts, negative opinions persist, leading to ongoing challenges in the culinary world.

While MSG is gaining acceptance in the United States, it still faces resistance in other parts of the world. Tia Rains, a nutrition scientist and Ajinomoto’s vice president, hopes that improved perceptions in the U.S. might influence global attitudes towards MSG, challenging outdated and xenophobic views. The aim is to highlight the safety and benefits of MSG, which, when used in conjunction with a small amount of salt, can reduce overall sodium intake in recipes by 20 to 40%.

In conclusion, chefs like Calvin Eng are at the forefront of a movement to redefine MSG, emphasizing its positive impact on culinary experiences. As awareness grows and misinformation is dispelled, the hope is that MSG will shed its unwarranted negative reputation worldwide, allowing people to appreciate its contribution to enhancing flavors in a variety of cuisines.