In the green-carpeted hills of Somerset, England, lies Maryland Farm, where the Barber family began making farmstead cheese in 1833. Almost two centuries later, Barber’s Farmhouse remains the oldest cheddar-maker in the world, preserving traditions and flavors that harken back to a bygone era.
Giles Barber, the great-great-great-grandson of founder Daniel Barber, proudly manages Barber’s Farmhouse, situated in one of the UK’s most fertile dairy regions. The family continues to operate in the same valley where they began, surrounded by small farms owned by individual families.
Cheddar, which traces its roots back to the village of Cheddar, located 15 miles away, has a rich history in the region. Early cheese makers utilized natural limestone caves and gorges as refrigerators, laying the foundation for the development of cheddar cheese, although the style evolved regionally.
Today, Barber’s Farmhouse holds a prestigious position as one of the select producers permitted to label their cheese as West Country Farmhouse Cheddar, a designation protected under the law. This Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) comes with strict requirements, and Barber’s Farmhouse adheres to traditional methods, including hand-turning cheese curds and using a collection of traditional cultures instead of modern freeze-dried alternatives.
In a globalized era dominated by industrially produced foods, Barber’s Farmhouse stands as a beacon of regional flavors and time-honored techniques. Their commitment to maintaining a connection with the past sets them apart, offering consumers a taste of authenticity in a world where mass production often prevails.
Cheddar’s journey from a regional delicacy to a global favorite is a testament to the innovative spirit of cheese makers like Daniel Barber. The transformation involved adapting to new technologies, such as heavy wooden cheese presses and improved cooking techniques, which enhanced the quality and durability of the cheese. These changes made cheddar easier to sell over long distances, marking a shift toward more market-oriented production.
By the late 1700s, English agriculture, including cheese-making, shifted its focus to supplying products like cheddar to the London market. The cheese’s lower moisture content and larger size made it suitable for long-distance shipping, and cheddar quickly became the cheese of choice. This trend continued as colonial immigrants carried English cheese-making traditions worldwide, making cheddar a global phenomenon.
However, the popularity of cheddar also faced variations in acceptance across different regions. In former British colonies where native populations experienced significant displacement, such as the United States and Canada, cheddar became deeply ingrained in local preferences. Meanwhile, in areas with less cultural displacement, cheddar’s popularity didn’t resonate as strongly.
Despite its widespread appeal, cheddar has seen shifts in popularity over the years. In the United States, mozzarella surpassed cheddar as the most-produced cheese in 2006, fueled in part by the rise of frozen pizzas. This shift reflected changing consumer preferences and the influence of innovations in the food industry.
Furthermore, artisanal cheese-makers have sought to revive traditional methods and flavors, reintroducing cloth-bound cheddar, a practice nearly extinct in the past. This resurgence represents a return to craftsmanship and the terroir, showcasing the unique flavors imparted by regional characteristics.
While cheddar’s dominance may have waned in certain markets, the inefficiency of traditional cheese-making methods adds a distinctive beauty and depth of flavor. Artisanal cheddar, with its nuanced taste of place, has become a sought-after delicacy, emphasizing the importance of preserving tradition and embracing the richness of regional terroir.