After operating for 26 years, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Belfast, Northern Ireland, is set to close its doors by the end of 2023. Deanes EIPIC, the flagship fine dining establishment, founded by Northern Irish chef Michael Deane in the 1990s, is taking this step due to escalating costs that have become prohibitive for both customers and the restaurant operators.
Deanes EIPIC achieved its first Michelin star within a year of its opening as Deanes in 1997. However, this month, the company made the announcement about the imminent closure, citing increased price sensitivity among customers and the compounding impact of external factors such as the Covid pandemic, Brexit, and the cost-of-living crisis. A relaunch is on the horizon, with a renewed focus on providing a “value for money” dining experience.
Head chef Alex Greene, a finalist on the UK TV show “Great British Menu,” highlights the move as indicative of a broader trend within the hospitality industry. According to Greene, “EIPIC as a whole wasn’t a restaurant that was dying,” but the expectations of customers have risen significantly. The cost of delivering that elevated experience has doubled since lockdown, making it financially unviable to maintain the status quo. Greene emphasizes that the cost has “spiraled out of control,” and adjusting prices to cover these expenses is not a feasible option.
While tasting menus at EIPIC are priced at £100 each (approximately $123), Belfast’s relatively smaller population results in a limited pool of affluent diners compared to larger cities like London or Paris. Despite not being at the extreme end of the price scale, the economic dynamics of Belfast pose unique challenges for high-end dining establishments.
EIPIC adheres to the classic fine-dining model that has earned many Michelin stars across Europe and beyond. However, Greene notes that the landscape of fine dining is evolving. The traditional markers of luxury, such as white linen tablecloths and meticulous service, are gradually becoming relics of a bygone era. Modern Michelin-caliber restaurants are opting for a more stripped-back approach, focusing on the essentials to streamline costs without compromising on the passion, dedication, and quality of the culinary experience. Greene acknowledges that while there is still a market for traditional fine dining, it is shrinking as consumer preferences shift towards a more contemporary and economically efficient dining model.
The challenges faced by the UK hospitality industry extend beyond cost considerations to encompass labor shortages. Greene highlights the difficulty of finding and retaining staff with the right level of dedication and knowledge, emphasizing that this endeavor is not only challenging but also expensive.
In this evolving landscape, Deanes EIPIC’s decision to close its doors underscores the broader changes occurring in the fine-dining sector. The restaurant industry, once characterized by opulence and formality, is adapting to a more pragmatic and economically sustainable model, reflective of shifting consumer demands and the operational realities of the current era. As the culinary world navigates these transformations, the closure of a Michelin-starred establishment serves as a poignant reminder of the delicate balance between tradition, innovation, and economic viability within the realm of fine dining.