Ipoh: An exploration of Malaysia’s emerging tourism gem, blending culture and cuisine

In the aftermath of the tin industry slump during the 1980s, Ipoh gained a reputation as a retirement destination or merely a stopover on the way to Penang. However, a recent resurgence is underway, driven by a new wave of hotels, cafes, museums, and street art in the historic center.

Julie Song, from Burps & Giggles, a cafe contributing to Ipoh’s transformation, notes the change: “Before, there wasn’t one place where people gathered. Now, everyone who comes makes Old Town their first stop.” Despite weekends being busier, Ipoh possesses the characteristics that make destinations like Penang appealing to travelers – a rich architectural, cultural, and culinary heritage minus the crowds.

Surrounded by Paleozoic limestone formations, Ipoh serves as a gateway to the area’s beautiful caves and hot springs. Here are some recommendations for things to do, places to eat, and where to stay in Ipoh:

Things to See:

1. Kong Heng Square: Transformed by landscape architect Ng Seksan and friends, Old Town now hosts a mix of old and new establishments, including chic cafes, boutique hotels, and craft stalls. The greenery adds a unique touch.

2. Yasmin at Kong Heng Museum: Showcasing the films of the late Malaysian director Yasmin Ahmad, this museum, open on weekends, offers a cultural experience.

3. Heritage Buildings: Explore colonial-era structures like the Railway Station and Old Town Hall. Old Town’s quaint shophouses and murals by artists like Ernest Zacharevic add to the architectural charm.

4. “The Vale of Tin and Sin”: Delve into the history of tin mining in Kinta Valley by visiting Han Chin Pet Soo, the former Hakka Tin Miners’ Club, providing insights into miners’ lives.

5. Lion Dance Head Makers: Meet artisans like Tan Khar Mee and Teh Wing Liang, who create traditional lion dance heads, providing a glimpse into this cultural craft.

6. Limestone Cave Temples: Visit Perak Tong, Sam Poh Tong, and Tambun Cave to explore Chinese temples built within limestone caves, each with its unique charm.

Things to Eat:

1. White Coffee and Toast: Enjoy Ipoh’s famous white coffee varieties paired with margarine toast at places like Sin Yoong Loong and Chang Jiang.

2. Nga Choy Kay: Try Ipoh’s quintessential dish, consisting of kway teow soup, poached chicken, and crunchy beansprouts. Lou Wong and Cowan Street Ayam Tauge & Koitiau are popular choices.

3. Kai See Hor Fun: Savor a bowl of flat rice noodles in a broth made with prawn shells at places like Thean Chun and Restoran Moon De Moon.

4. Curry Mee: Head to Xin Quan Fang for Ipoh curry mee, known for its unique blend of spices, or try their dry curry version.

5. Hakka Mee: Paris Restaurant is famous for its Hakka mee, featuring springy, flat egg noodles with minced meat and bean sprouts.

6. “Nasi Ganja”: Despite the intriguing name, this rice dish from Nasi Kandar Ayam Merah at Yong Suan kopitiam is a local favorite, featuring ayam merah, okra, salted egg, and curry sauce.

7. Sar Kok Liew: Taste the signature yam bean and fish paste patty at Dai Shu Geok or Kwong Hong.

8. Yu Kong Hor with Boiled Octopus: Visit Tuck Kee in the evenings for specialties like wat tan hor or yu kong hor with a side of boiled octopus.

9. Kaya Puff: Indulge in Ipoh’s famous kaya puff at Sin Eng Heong or Sin Eng Hoe, where the founder’s son maintains the original recipe.

10. Tau Fu Fa: Conclude your culinary journey with soybean curd dessert at Funny Mountain or Woong Kee.

Where to Stay:

1. Banjaran Hotsprings Retreat: Experience luxury amid limestone hills with private villas featuring plunge pools fed by hot springs. Facilities include a pool, steam and sauna cave, and a cave cellar for dining.

2. Bedrock Hotel: This boutique hotel blends contemporary Chinese and Western details, offering comfortable rooms with imported beds and rock collections on display.

3. Sekeping Kong Heng: A part of Ng Seksan’s Sekeping collection, this hotel combines industrial and natural elements, providing a retreat in the heart of Old Town.

4. Sarang Paloh: Set within a 1930s Art Deco-style bank building, this boutique guesthouse offers 11 rooms named after Malaysian birds, combining wood, antiques, and modern amenities.

5. 27 Concubine Lane: Housed in a restored 1908 shophouse, this homestay provides a heritage experience with three private doubles and an open loft, offering a unique hideaway feel.

In summary, Ipoh’s revival is evident in its diverse attractions, rich culinary offerings, and a range of accommodation options that cater to both luxury seekers and those looking for a heritage experience.