Indian Judge to Decide Dispute Over Origins of Butter Chicken, a Global Favorite

Butter chicken, renowned as one of India’s most globally recognized dishes, has found itself at the center of a legal dispute between two Indian restaurant chains. The ongoing lawsuit has become a hotly debated topic in India, pitting the family behind Moti Mahal, a renowned Delhi restaurant brand, against the newer establishment, Daryaganj. The Moti Mahal family alleges that Daryaganj falsely claims to have originated the iconic curry, created by Kundan Lal Gujral in the 1930s when Moti Mahal first opened in Peshawar before relocating to Delhi.

Moti Mahal, a restaurant that has hosted notable figures such as late U.S. President Richard Nixon and India’s first Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru, has filed a comprehensive 2,752-page court document seeking $240,000 in damages. The lawsuit not only accuses Daryaganj of falsely claiming to have invented butter chicken but also alleges the appropriation of Moti Mahal’s website layout and the overall ambiance of its restaurants.

Monish Gujral, the managing director at Moti Mahal, passionately asserts, “You cannot take away somebody’s legacy… The dish was invented when our grandfather was in Pakistan.” The Gujral family contends that the dish’s origins trace back to the early days of Moti Mahal in Peshawar, and they seek to protect their culinary legacy.

In response, Daryaganj, established in 2019, counters that its late family member, Kundan Lal Jaggi, had collaborated with Gujral to open the Delhi restaurant in 1947, asserting that the dish was, in fact, created there. The restaurant presented a faded, hand-written partnership document from 1949 as evidence supporting its claim.

The legal dispute has not only captured the attention of the nation but has also become a topic of discussion on Indian TV networks, with segments dedicated to exploring the history of butter chicken. Social media platforms are abuzz with debates, reflecting the widespread interest in the case.

Ameet Datta, an intellectual property lawyer at India’s Saikrishna & Associates, acknowledges the uniqueness of the case, stating, “It’s an offbeat, unique case. You really don’t know who created the first dish of butter chicken. The court will be hard-pressed and will need to rely on circumstantial evidence.” He suggests that testimonies from individuals who can link the brand to the dish they consumed decades ago could be crucial evidence in determining the true origin of butter chicken.

The dish itself, a delectable combination of tandoor-cooked chicken pieces in a tomato gravy enriched with cream and butter, holds a special place in global culinary rankings. TasteAtlas, a platform with ratings from nearly 400,000 users, placed butter chicken at the 43rd spot in the list of the world’s “best dishes.” Remarkably, it was the second-highest-ranked Indian dish, following butter garlic naan bread, and the two are often enjoyed together.

As the legal battle unfolds, the Delhi High Court heard the case for the first time last week, setting the stage for further proceedings scheduled for May. The outcome of this dispute will not only determine the rightful claimant to the invention of butter chicken but may also shape the narrative surrounding one of India’s most beloved and internationally acclaimed culinary treasures.