In 2024, Italy, known for its unwritten rules regarding food, may see a significant departure from tradition as renowned Naples pizzaiolo, Gino Sorbillo, introduces the controversial “Margherita con Ananas” to his menu on Via dei Tribunali, the world-famous pizza street. Breaking the mold, Sorbillo incorporates pineapple into his creation, challenging the long-standing aversion to this topping among Italians.
Costing 7 euros ($7.70), this unconventional pizza, a variation of the Hawaiian style, takes a unique twist as it becomes a pizza bianca, omitting the traditional tomato layer. Sorbillo opts for three types of cheese, including smoked provola, a local cow milk cheese from Campania. The pineapple undergoes a prebaking process in the oven, creating a caramelized flavor. Fresh basil and extra virgin olive oil complete the ensemble, and upon exiting the wood-fired oven, micro shavings of smoked cacioricotta cheese from Sardinian goats and buffalos in the nearby Cilento area are added for an extra layer of flavor.
Sorbillo, a third-generation pizzaiolo with 21 outlets worldwide, aims to challenge food prejudices with his creation. He expresses concern about people condemning certain ingredients or preparation methods simply because they are unfamiliar. Sorbillo believes that incorporating disputed ingredients into Neapolitan pizza, a culinary tradition with a history spanning 3,000 years, will make them more palatable.
Despite the bold move, the introduction of pineapple on pizza has triggered an uproar in Italy. Social media platforms have become a battleground for insults and discussions, even making its way onto national TV. The majority of Italians remain averse to this unconventional topping, viewing it as heretical to their culinary heritage.
Sorbillo defends his creation, noting that those who dared to try it were pleasantly surprised. He emphasizes that Italy, like many places, is divided on the issue, attributing the resistance to a lack of curiosity and a mistrust of anything different.
While some adventurous food enthusiasts and a food journalist who tasted the pineapple pizza praised its freshness and flavor, many Italians remain skeptical. Sorbillo acknowledges the challenge but emphasizes the importance of tasting before forming an opinion.
Sorbillo draws parallels between pineapple on pizza and other innovative toppings introduced in recent years, such as speck, mortadella, chopped pistachios, powdered olives, mozzarella foam, and even jams. He believes that the evolution of pizza has been ongoing for the past five or six years, and rediscovering pineapple is just another step in this culinary journey.
Despite facing criticism, Sorbillo has already used the controversy to create another unconventional pizza – one with ketchup. Using homemade sauce from red and yellow Italian datterino tomatoes on a white base with smoked provola, Sorbillo showcases his ability to transform traditional elements into something new and unexpected.
In conclusion, Gino Sorbillo’s introduction of pineapple on pizza has sparked both praise and condemnation in Italy. While traditionalists resist the change, Sorbillo sees it as a step towards embracing gastronomic curiosity and challenging preconceived notions about pizza toppings. Whether the Margherita con Ananas will become a widespread phenomenon in Naples and beyond remains to be seen, but Sorbillo’s innovative spirit seems poised to influence the future of pizza in unexpected ways.