It has been two months since the Teesta River wreaked havoc on its course through Sikkim and North Bengal, leaving behind devastation and loss. Hundreds of people remain missing, and their families, coming to terms with the tragedy, have reluctantly accepted the grim reality. The riverbed is now buried under neck-deep silt, and homes, once filled with water, are now filled with sediment. Despite the challenges, preparations for the upcoming tourist season are underway, with boulders and debris scattered across the national highway.
The road running alongside the Teesta serves as a vital artery in this Himalayan region, even though the September flood caused significant damage. Broken bridges punctuate the riverbed, and remnants of the flood, like a wayward dumpster, can be found half-submerged in the sand. Teesta Bazar, once bustling with activity, now stands calm and quiet. The river, though muddy, has returned to a more tranquil state, with the memories of its previous fury fading away.
Embarking on a journey from Teesta Bazar along National Highway 710 leads to Temi, Sikkim’s sole tea estate, where I spent two days last week. This stretch of highway was spared from the river’s rage, and the road to Temi winds through picturesque landscapes, crisscrossed by the crystal-blue Rangit River and bordered by the Kitam Bird Sanctuary.
Approaching Namchi, a charming mountain town adorned in holiday splendor, one is reminded that Temi is just 30 kilometers away. The tea garden, nestled on the slopes of the Tendong hills, offers stunning views of the Kangchenjunga range on clear days. The drive from Pelling, Sikkim’s tourist hub, to Temi takes approximately 2.5 hours and provides uninterrupted views of the awe-inspiring Kangchenjunga throughout.
As the road turns towards Temi, travelers are greeted by the breathtaking sight of manicured tea gardens, creating an immediate sense of freshness. The air in this serene environment contrasts sharply with the pollution of city life. Cherry Resort, a three-storied green building with a red terrace managed by the Sikkim government, offers a peaceful retreat amid acres of tea bushes. The silence is punctuated only by birdsong and buzzing insects, providing a stark contrast to urban noise.
The night falls with crisp air, signaling winter’s arrival. The temperature drops to 5 degrees Celsius, and the sky comes alive with a myriad of stars. Sipping on Temi tea, the journey immerses into the magic of the season.
The following morning, at dawn, the Kangchenjunga unveils its splendor in the first light of winter. The mountains glow orange, reflecting the morning sun, and the beauty of Temi unfolds in all its glory. Established in 1969, the 440-acre tea estate produces some of the world’s finest organic tea. Only 25% remains for local consumption, while the rest is auctioned for export.
Temi stands out with its unique landscape, adorned not with shade trees but cherry trees that lend their name to the resort. In November, when these trees blossom, the estate transforms into a pink and green wonderland. Though December sees the hills return to their dark green hue, the allure of Temi remains, promising a return in November for the full bloom experience.
Temi, with its rich history and natural beauty, provides a respite from the bustling city life, inviting visitors to savor the tranquility of this Himalayan haven.
For those planning a visit to Temi, it is conveniently accessible, located 120 kilometers from Siliguri, with Bagdogra airport and New Jalpaiguri railway station as the nearest transportation hubs. Shared taxis are readily available for the 3-3.5 hour drive to Temi. Additionally, there are various accommodation options, including the government’s Cherry Resort and several homestays in the area.
While the cherry trees are in full bloom during November, Temi remains accessible year-round, with the monsoon season best avoided. Visitors can explore the Temi tea factory, embark on the Temi Tea Walk, and visit nearby attractions such as the Ravangla Buddha Park and Namchi Char Dham.
Temi, a hidden gem in the heart of Sikkim, promises an enchanting escape, inviting all to experience the beauty and serenity it offers throughout the year.