A flawless day in Brazil’s aquatic paradise

In the midst of life’s challenges, witnessing the opening of a sea turtle nest can evoke a sense of wonder and belief in miracles. Projeto Tamar, a Brazilian organization dedicated to sea turtle conservation, usually keeps these nest openings on the archipelago of Fernando de Noronha a private event. However, insiders occasionally get a heads-up about these magical moments.

The golden sands of Praia do Leão and the island’s inner sea beaches host green sea turtle nests from December to June. Projeto Tamar’s biologists carefully open the nests, revealing baby turtles the size of poker chips that have survived incubation and natural predators. The tiny reptiles instinctively make their way towards the ocean, battling wind, waves, and seabird attacks. This spectacle, where only a few out of thousands might make it to the water, is a breathtaking display of resilience and determination.

Even if one misses the turtle nest opening, waking up in Fernando de Noronha, Brazil’s aquatic Eden, is a privilege. The island, situated 326 miles off the northeast coast of Brazil, offers a postcard-perfect blend of sea and sand. However, Noronha is expensive, challenging to reach, and highly restricted, allowing only around 700 visitors per day.

Ecopousada Teju-Açu, an eco-sensitive inn, stands out as a favorite place to stay, nestled in lush greenery and featuring understated bungalows surrounding a serene pool. While lacking a sea view due to stringent building codes, the inn radiates a tropical utopia vibe.

Noronha’s visitors often embark on two must-do excursions: a buggy tour to explore the 16 pristine beaches and a boat tour in search of spinner dolphins, a rare sight found in only a few places worldwide. Praia do Sancho, accessible via a ladder through volcanic rock, stands out as one of the world’s most idyllic beaches, backed by cliff-cradled Atlantic rainforest.

The island’s preservation efforts are reflected in its designation as a national park, with about 75% of its area protected. Entry fees and daily preservation taxes contribute to the island’s conservation, making paradise come at a cost.

As visitors explore various beaches, including Baía dos Porcos and Praia do Leão, the lack of crowds is striking. The evenings offer breathtaking sunsets from Boldró Fort, overlooking the iconic Dois Irmãos (Two Brothers) volcanic formations.

While Noronha lacks vibrant nightlife, it compensates with culinary delights. Cacimba Bistro, located in the main village, serves exquisite dishes like shrimp with okra and wild saffron with jackfruit rice. Chef Auricelio Romão’s fish and shrimp moqueca, a traditional seafood stew, is a standout.

Despite Brazil’s economic and political challenges, Fernando de Noronha continues to captivate visitors with its unspoiled beauty, earning the reputation of heaven on Earth for Brazilians. The island remains a haven, offering one day in paradise after another, showcasing the resilience of both its natural wonders and the human spirit.